Tongariro National Park – North Island, New Zealand

North Island, New Zealand

Hours: Open year round.
Fees: No entrance fee.
Location: In the center of North Island, four hours’ drive from Auckland or Wellington. The closest towns are Turangi, Ohakune and National Park, while the small town of Whakapapa is inside park boundaries.
Activities: Hiking, skiing, mountaineering, fishing.
Contact: The Whakapapa Visitor Centre at Private Bag, Mt. Ruapehu 2650, phone 06 892 3729.
Website: Department of Conservation

A national park since 1887 (it’s the oldest in New Zealand and the fourth in the world), Tongariro has World Heritage status for its natural and cultural significance. To the Maori people, who gifted the land to the country, this is a place of great spiritual meaning. For Hobbit-chasers it’s a must: Tongariro was the stand-in for Mordor, the mountainous fortress of evil, in the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Visitors interested in its natural appeal won’t be disappointed, either.

In North America it’s called hiking, but in New Zealand it’s called “tramping”; whatever you call it, Tongariro is a good place to take a long walk. The park is home to three volcanoes: Mt. Ruapehu, Mt. Tongariro, and Mt. Ngauruhoe, which burps steam and ash throughout the year. Hiking trails wind through a volcanic moonscape, passing hardened lava flows, hot springs and mud pools. High mineral content infuses little lakes with strange colors. The Emerald Lakes, near the summit of Mt. Tongariro, are neon green.

The most popular track is the Tongariro Crossing, a hike that skirts Mt. Tongariro and passes the Emerald Lakes. In a land known for good walks, this one is often cited as the best one-day hike in the country. It’s a ten mile route that takes about eight hours. Maps are available from the visitor centers in the local towns. Weather in the area can change quickly, but try to pick a clear day; if it’s overcast or stormy, the fantastic views disappear.

In summer, the crossing is always busy; Tongariro has more than a million visitors a year, and more than a thousand of those could be jammed onto that trail with you. Finding some space is as simple as choosing a longer route. The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a four-day hike that includes the Tongariro Crossing, and “Round the Mountain” takes five days to circle Mt. Ruapehu. There are backcountry huts and campsites on both routes; the Department of Conservation has information on the applicable fees. Buy hut tickets at visitor centers or the DOC offices in Turangi and log your route with the DOC for safety.

When winter comes to the slopes of the three volcanoes, they become popular ski and snowboard destinations. Whakapapa Ski Field, on Mt. Ruapehu, is the largest ski area on the North Island, with runs for all skill levels. Alpine exploration and mountaineering is only recommended for those with plenty of experience.

Buses and trains travel to the Tongariro area from Auckland and Wellington, and accommodation choices are plentiful. Whakapapa has the Bayview Chateau Tongariro, one of the oldest hotels in New Zealand, but for a tighter budget, hostels and campsites are available as well. Ohakune, Turangi and National Park all have accommodation for every size of wallet. Most places offer shuttles to popular tracks and into Whakapapa, so there’s nothing to stop you from joining the hordes – or tramping into the less-explored places.