The Home Stretch – Japan

The Home Stretch
Japan

December 10
I arrived on the ferry in Shimonoeski, Japan. Immigration gave me a hard time, they asked for my onward ticket, how much money I had and really went through my belongings. Surprisingly, it was the biggest border hassle I’ve had. Finally, I was let through and allowed to take a bullet train to Hiroshima. The train goes over 200 miles an hour and is a smooth ride.

One of the few surviving buildings

I stayed at an old wooden house, called a ryokan. This is where the old samurai used to stay when they were traveling the countryside. This one actually has wooden doors which is not as traditional as the sliding rice paper door. My room also had a number instead of a painting, which is more traditional. Also, there was no typical breakfast of raw eggs and seaweed. I did sleep on a reed mat floor with no real mattress.

December 11
Very close to Hiroshima is the heavily photographed floating torii. When water levels are high, this gate appears to be floating. Now, it looks like a gate that is stuck in mud because the water is too low. One is supposed to pass through these gates to purify before stepping into the actual Shinto shrine. There was an accompanying shrine, Itsukushima-jinja, which I did visit.

Nearby is Mt. Misen. A lot of people take the cable car up, which is quick and easy. I preferred the walk up the mountain by myself. There are several small temples on the way up, which appear to be either Buddhist or Shinto. It was also a nice day weather wise.

Despite being a big tourist draw, it was calm as far as people bothering tourists also. The only annoying part was the overly tame reindeer. I was eating my lunch when one snuck up from behind me and ate my sandwich out of my hand.

December 12
The Peace Memorial Park is currently located where the epicenter of the nuclear bomb dropped on Hiroshima was. The T-shaped bridge next to the park is supposedly the target for the Enola Gay. One of the few surviving buildings is the A-bomb Dome. There is also a flame that stays lit until all nuclear weapons are destroyed. Across from the flame is the Children’s Peace Memorial. The memorial is built for Sadako, who was a 10-year-old that contracted leukemia. She thought if she made a 1,000 paper cranes, the Japanese symbol of longevity and happiness, that she would live. She died after 644 but classmates made the last 356 and eventually the memorial was constructed. Also of note, is a mass burial mound of 70,000. They couldn’t identify many people so they just incinerated them and buried them in the ground.

The floating torii appears to floating when water levels are high

Within the confines of the Peace Park, is the very comprehensive A-bomb Museum. The reasons for the US decision to nuke Hiroshima were very balanced. They note that the Japanese may not have surrendered without this nuclear bomb, the city was not bombed conventionally so it would be a good guinea pig to see just how destructive the a bomb was, and finally it would force Russia to back off if they considered moving into Asia. There were about 20 cities on the original nuke list. The museum also had an illustration before and after the bombing of Hiroshima. On the second floor they discuss proliferation of nuclear weapons and this is where they place blame on the US, as well as other nuclear countries, for the proliferation of nuclear weapons.

The west side of the museum is specific to the events of August 6^th. There are artifacts from that day such as glass melted together, bikes and lunchboxes. Also, several graphic pictures are included. An interesting one is to see the darkened pavement where a person was sitting. The extreme heat caused the pavement around the person to be lightened. The museum leaves a strong impression whether or not you believe in dropping the bomb.

Even though, the Peace Garden is the main attraction there are other places to visit in Hiroshima. Hiroshima Castle was originally built in 1589 and has laser exhibits describing the castle. I also drank the water here, which after seeing the after-effects of the bomb was disconcerting but drinking the water is no longer a problem.

December 13
I took the overnight bus to Kyoto, which had only a few people, so I could lie down and sleep a little. I arrived early to a pouring rain. I went to the Kyoto Imperial Palace and hung out there. This is actually the old emperor’s palace. The old buildings are nice and have interesting roofs. There is a waiting list, but foreigners are given preferential treatment and I made it in right away.

Then to the castles that the shoguns used as defense. The Nijo-jo Castle was the first one I went to. An interesting part of the castle was the squeaky floor in which possible intruders would be busted. The sliding doors with the pictures of the tigers were also attractive. There is also a garden area to visit in the castle area.

Then I found an ATM and Internet, which is free at a Hitachi store I found. The hostel I’m staying doesn’t let anyone in until 5 p.m. so I walked around for a while. They have a common shared area for taking baths, which is a major activity here in Japan. The Japanese take a lot of time and pride in the bathing process. I had a very long bath and this helped my sore back. The hostel is regimented, as there are several rules that must be followed. One rule is lights out at 10:30, but I was tired anyways.

December 14
I took a day trip to Nara via an express train that I took. The first place I went to was home of the Big Buddha, Todai-ji Shrine. Nara was Japan’s first capital so there was no shortage of shrines to visit.

There are several small Buddhist and Shinto shrines while walking up Mt. Misen

Then, I went back to Kyoto to visit the Geisha district, Gion. In the area they have a Geisha girl show but this is just for tourists and very expensive. I saw the teahouses where the girls used to perform. This are was interesting, but I’m running out of steam. After six months, I guess that’s bound to happen.

December 15
I visited the Philosophers Path on the eastern side of Kyoto. There are no roads or cars, just a walkway to contemplate life. The walk takes about 30 minutes at a slow, constant speed. There is a temple to visit at the end, Ginkaku-ji Temple. Also in the area is a handicraft museum as well a craft center where I did some shopping.

I can’t do much because of my back is sore and I can’t carry my big backpack. Even walking a lot is difficult. I can’t rest because my hostel isn’t open from 11-5 so I’m limping my way back home.