Korea Lake Country

Rugged mountains, deep blue lakes and rushing rivers— it’s what Hwacheon’s all about. Just getting to Hwacheon is itself an adventure, with buses from Chuncheon (the nearest transportation hub) following a winding route along the craggy banks of Lake Chuncheon and the Bukhangang River. Traveling about the district involves bus and car rides through steep valleys and high mountain passes that offer stunning views over the wilds of central Korea. For most of the year, Hwacheon is little more than a sleepy mountain town (albeit a beautiful one) frequented mainly by a) sportsmen hoping to do a little fishing, and b) Korean military personnel, who actually outnumber residents in this sparsely populated county near the DMZ with North Korea. In January, however, its frozen rivers play host to one of Korea’s most popular winter festivals, the Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival. The festival aside, Hwacheon’s scenic beauty alone justifies the two-and-a-half hour bus ride from Seoul, and history buffs will appreciate the Korean War history hidden amidst the county’s mountains and waterways.

Hwacheon, like neighboring Chuncheon, is in the heart of Korea’s lake country. Granted, most of the “lakes” are actually reservoirs, the product of massive dam projects during the middle part of the 20th century, but the resulting scenery is beautiful nonetheless. They also provide a venue for leisure activities like sport fishing and boating. Created in 1944 wi th the const ruct ion of the Hwacheon Dam (see below), Paro-ho Lake is the largest of Hwacheon’s reservoirs. Known prior to 1951 as the Hwacheon Reservoir, it was given its current name— which translates as “lake where the barbarians were smashed”—by Korea’s first president, Syngman Rhee, to commemorate the seizing of the strategically important body of water (and, just as important, its valuable hydroelectric plant) from Chinese forces in the Korean War. Rimmed by snowy peaks, the deep blue lake is quite picturesque (especially in the morning, when it is covered in fog), and a small lakeside village has a number of restaurants where you enjoy the bounty of the reservoir’s plentiful fish stock. Also near the lake are a couple of Korean War battle monuments and a small museum dedicated to the bloody battles fought to control the lake. Within the year, ferryboat service between the lake and the famous Peace Dam (see below) will begin, although a concrete date has yet to be fixed.

Built by the Japanese between 1939 and 1944, the massive Hwacheon Dam is still one of Korea’s largest and an important source of electrical power. In fact, at the time of the Korean War, it was one of South Korea’s only sources of power, and it was for this reason—and the fear that the communists could use it as a weapon to flood the Hangang River valley—that some of the Korean War’s fiercest battles took place around the dam and Hwacheon Reservoir. Sturdily built, the dam survived intense bombings from US B-29 heavy bombers, although its sluice gates were eventually taken out by aerial torpedoes dropped by US Navy aircraft in a raid reminiscent of the Death Star scene in “Star Wars.” There are a couple of Korean War monuments by the dam, which itself cuts a rather spectacular image against the backdrop of the lake and forested hills beyond.

• Getting There: Buses to Paro-ho Lake depart from Hwacheon’s inner city bus terminal. To get to Hwacheon Dam, however, you should take a cab from downtown Hwacheon (the fare comes to about 15,000 won).

Hwacheon is perhaps best known as home to the Peace Dam, a rather curious piece of Cold War history. In 1986, the North Koreans began work on a mammoth dam just across the DMZ. South Korea—then preparing for the 1988 Summer Olympics—feared the North Koreans might use the dam to flood the Hangang River and wreak havoc in Seoul, so they began work on a dam of their own, dubbed the “Peace Dam,” to block potential flood waters from the North. A nationwide campaign to gather money for the dam was undertaken—school children would donate their lunch money for the cause— but construction was suspended when public opinion turned against the project, which came to be regarded as an embarrassing white elephant. The dam got a new lease on life in 2002, however, when cracks began appearing in the North Korean dam across the DMZ. Work began again on the Peace Dam, which was finally completed in October 2005. At 601 meters long and 125 meters high, the Peace Dam is truly gargantuan in scale. True to purpose, it lacks a reservoir; it was built to keep water out, not hold it in. Located in a remote mountain valley near the DMZ, the surroundings couldn’t be any more gorgeous. The dam is now part of a “peace park,” and surrounding the dam wall are a number of belfries in which hang massive Buddhist bells crafted from casings and shells collected from 30 conflict zones around the world. It is said that when rung, the bells can be heard for 100 km. Also near the dam is a humble stone tomb with a rusty steel helmet and a cross made from gnarled wood. This is a replica of an actual tomb found not far from here in 1964 by a young lieutenant named Hahn Myung-hee. Hahn later penned the song “Bimok” (“Wooden Cross”), which became one of the most famous Korean tunes of the 1970s. The tomb symbolizes the tragedy of a nation torn apart by fratricidal war.

• Getting There: Buses to the Peace Dam run from Hwacheon’s inner city bus terminal. The trip takes about 50 minutes. The road to the dam passes through rugged mountain country, including the Haesan Scenic Spot, a high mountain pass that offers wonderful vistas. Of course, you can make better use of the scenic spot if you have your own car or Crafted from used casings and shells from 30 conflict zones around the world, the huge Buddhist bell is a are taking a taxi.

Located above the 38th parallel, Hwacheon was controlled by North Korea prior to the Korean War. An interesting reminder of this history is an old North Korean barracks building located about a 20-minute drive from downtown Hwacheon. A sturdy stone building with little in the way of decoration, it has recently been restored. You’re going to want to take a taxi here—taxi drivers know it as the Inmingun Saryeongbu Maksa (인민군사령부 막사).

Hwacheon’s population skyrockets by an exponential factor every winter when it plays host the Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival, to be held this year on Jan 9—31. Dedicated to the sancheoneo, an indigenous freshwater mountain trout that thrives in the county’s ice cold rivers, the festival’s signature event is ice fishing. There will be equipment on hand to help you do this, although if you like (and some do), you could try it barehanded, too! It’s really quite good fun, and even if the fish don’t appeal to you, there’s plenty else going on, like sledding and skating. If nothing else, it gives you an excuse to visit.

Getting to Hwacheonn Buses to Hwacheon depart from Seoul’s Dongseoul (14 buses a day) and Sangbong (13 buses a day) terminals. The trip takes about three hours, with all buses passing through the provincial capital of Chuncheon first. Indeed, if you prefer, you can take a train from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station to Chuncheon, from which buses to Hwacheon depart frequently. From Chuncheon, it takes about an hour to get to Hwacheon Where to Stay There are about 20 or so motels and Korean-style inns (yeogwan) in Hwacheon Town. Most are pleasant enough and offer rooms at around 35,000—50,000 won a night, depending on size and time of year. If you’re looking for something a bit more luxurious, you might want to look in Chuncheon, where there is a much wider range of accommodation. What to Eat With its many rivers and lakes, Hwacheon is famous for its fish, often served raw. Myeongga (033-442-2957), not far from Hwacheon Bus Terminal, is famous for its freshwater trout (sancheoneo), roasted freshwater eel (jangeo-gui) and mandarin fish sashimi (ssogari-hoe). Raw fish can get expensive, though. Hwacheon Eojuktang (033-442-5544), located in front of Hwacheon Hydroelectric Power Station, does a mean eojuktang (spicy fish stew) on the cheap. Eobu Hoetjip (033-442-3131), located near the pier of Paro-ho Lake, has been serving raw fish for over 30 years. If you’d prefer something less fishy, near the bus terminal you’ll find Cheonil Makguksu (033-442-2127), which specializes in makguksu—spicy buckwheat noodles served cold. It’s a regional specialty.

Written by Gitte Zschoch Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo - The article courtesy of Seoul magazine

Ganghwa Island

For centuries, Ganghwa Island has served as both a getaway—in the very literal sense—and a gatekeeper to Korea. In the 13th century, the Korean royal court fled to the island fortress, strategically located at the mouth of the Hangang River, as the Mongols swept down upon Korea. In the 19th century, French, American and Japanese invaders attacked the island, waging fierce battles below its bastion walls. Later, more foreigners, this time Christian missionaries from Britain and elsewhere, would set foot on the island, dotting the countryside with Korean-style churches—some of which stand to this day. Located just an hour’s drive west of Seoul, Ganghwa Island still gets a large number of visitors, although mostly in the form of tourists. History buffs love its old walls and citadels, while its beautiful Buddhist monasteries provide weekend solace to world-weary refugees from Seoul. Hikers head for Mt. Manisan, with its ancient altar and spectacular views of the sea, Travel while the more culinary-inclined are content simply to consume the island’s famous fresh horse crab and other bounty from the surrounding waters and mudflats.

Historically, Ganghwa is most famous for providing shelter to the Korean court during the dark days of the Mongol invasions of the 13th century. The first Mongol invasion, launched in 1231, led to a Korean surrender and a heavy tribute burden. Determined to resist, in 1232 the royal court, led by King Gojong of the Goryeo Dynasty (r. 1213—1259), evacuated the capital of Kaesong (just across the DMZ in today’s North Korea) in favor of Ganghwa and safety from attack by the landloving Mongols, whose fear of the water was so severe they would not cross even the narrow strait separating the island from the mainland. It was a impressive logistical undertaking for a medieval kingdom. The court stayed at Ganghwa until 1270, when they finally sued for peace with the Mongols, who had spent the better part of forty years laying waste to the Korean mainland. Unfortunatel y , most o f the old palace and fortifications were destroyed when the royal court returned to the mainland. In the Joseon era (1392— 1910), a new palace complex was constructed after the Qing invasion of Korea in 1636, but this, too, was torched by French marines in 1866; only three buildings remain. Still, the old palace ground, located in the administrative hub of Ganghwa Town (Ganghwa-eup), is worth seeing. An old gate from the Joseon era town wall still remains, too.

Getting There: The old Goryeo palace site is near Ganghwa Elementary School in Ganghwa Town.

Standing sentinel at the mouth of the Hangang River, old Korea’s highway to the royal capital, Ganghwa also hosted some of Korea’s first interactions with the West in the late 19th century. These interactions were not entirely peaceable, however. In 1866, the French— enacting vengeance for a brutal crackdown on Catholics by the Korean royal court that left nine French missionaries dead—attacked the island. The raiders were repulsed, but not before they’d burned and looted much of the island in good imperialist fashion. In 1871, American marines attacked Ganghwa’s fortresses in retaliation for the burning of a US ship and to persuade (unsuccessfully, as history would have it) the Koreans to sign a trade treaty. Finally, in 1875, the Japanese attacked the island and forced the Koreans to sign the Ganghwa Treaty, which marked Korea’s “opening” to imperial powers of the West and Japan. The old fortifications are still very much in place along the island’s western coast (i.e., guarding the strait with the mainland). The most impressive of these is the Gwangseongbo Citadel, a series of defense walls, gun emplacements and command posts where Korean defenders fought to the death against US Navy bluejackets in 1871. Other historic coastal batteries can be found at Chojijin and Deokjinjin, too.

Getting There: Buses to Gwangseongbo, Deokjinjin and Chojijin run from Ganghwa Bus Terminal.

Ganghwa's most notable topographical feature (other than being surrounded by water, that is) is Mt. Manisan, a 468 meter peak that rises gently out of the southern interior of the island. Crossed by well-kept hiking paths, including a full flight of stone steps to the top, it sees a good many weekend hikers from Seoul, even in winter. The peak offers fine views of the West Sea and the Korean mainland (provided the weather’s good, of course). The mountain is best known, however, for the Chamseongdan, a stone altar on its peak. It is said that Dangun, who founded the Korean nation in 2333 BC, held sacrificial rites to heaven here. Annual rites are still performed at the altar on National Foundation Day (Oct 3). The upper ridge line is quite rocky, so wear your hiking boots. The best sunsets on the island, however, are seen from the peak of Mt. Goryeosan (436m) in the north of the island. Beautiful sunsets can also be had from Jeokseoksa Temple on the western slopes of the mountain.

Getting There: Buses to Mt. Manisan run from Ganghwa Bus Terminal.

One of Korea’s most beautiful Buddhist temples, Jeondeungsa has a history that goes back to AD 381. It is home to a plethora of cultural treasures, including its 17th century main hall and an 11th century Chinese temple bell that came into the temple’s possession after World War II. When you visit, be sure to check out the corners of the main hall—you’ll notice carved figures of naked women holding up the roof. According to legend, the engineer building the temple fell in love with a barmaid in town. Unfortunately for him, she absconded with all his money. In revenge, the engineer worked her image into the temple, where, at least figuratively, she would have to hold up the temple roof for all eternity. Another wonderful temple to visit is Bomunsa, located on the small isle of Seongmo-do (a five minute ferry ride from the Ganghwa port of Oepo-ri). There’s an ancient Buddhist grotto on the grounds of the temple, and in the granite cliffs above the complex is a 10 meter high Buddhist relief, reached by a kilometer long flight of steps.

Getting There: Buses to Jeondeungsa run from Ganghwa Bus Terminal. To get to Bomunsa, take a bus from Ganghwa Bus Terminal to Oepo-ri and take the ferry from there.

Ganghwa is also home to several hanok churches, built in the traditional Korean hanok style during the early part of the 20th century. The most famous of these is Ganghwa Anglican Church, located on a hill in Ganghwa Town. Consecrated in 1900 and built by a royal architect who participated in the reconstruction of Seoul’s Gyeongbokgung Palace, the church harmonizes Korean palace architecture and Buddhist spatial orientation with a Roman basilica interior. Visit it on Sunday morning, when you’re more likely to get inside. There’s another hanok Anglican church (built in a much simpler style) in Onsu-ri, near Jeondeungsa Temple. More intrepid travelers can visit Seodo Central Methodist Church, located on the island of Jumun-do, an hour and 40 minute ferry ride from Oepo-ri (two ferries a day, at 9:30am and 5pm, but the latter requires you to sleep on the island). Also in hanok style, it has a rather unusual second story above its entrance, originally used as a bell tower in imitation of Western church architecture

Getting There: Ganghwa Anglican Church is in downtown Ganghwa Town. Onsu-si Anglican Church is a short walk from Jeondeungsa Temple (see above).

TIP: Lotus Lantern International Meditation Center Located near Jeondeungsa Temple, the Lotus Lantern International Meditation Center offers temple stay programs every weekend (except the fourth weekend of the month). Visit www.lotuslantern.net for more information.

Getting to Ganghwa Island Buses to Ganghwa Island leave from Seoul’s Sinchon Bus Terminal, reached via Exit 7 of Sinchon Station, Line 2. The trip to Ganghwa Town takes about an hour and 10 minutes. From Ganghwa Terminal, you can take local buses to destinations throughout the island.

What to Eat Being an island, Ganghwa is famous for its seafood. In particular, it is known for its delicious horse crab (kkotge). Seoul Hoetjip (032-933-5433), located in the port of Oepo-ri, is famous for its horse crab stew (kkotgetang), which you can order for 50,000 won a serving (feeds two). Another specialty of Ganghwa is eel harvested from the island’s famous mudflats. There are a ton of restaurants specializing in eel—particularly roasted eel (jangeo gui)—in the so-called “Deorimi Jangeochon” near the Ganghwa Bridge. Where to Stay A lot of folk do Ganghwa as a day trip from Seoul. Should you choose to spend the night, though, there are plenty of places to stay, homestay facilities (minbak) and rental houses (pensions) in particular. “Sea & Gallery” (032- 937-0416, www.sngpension.com, Korean) blends artwork and European interior rooms (70,000—150,000 won a night) with beautiful views of the sea. Be sure to book a room in advance, though.

- The article courtesy of Seoul magazine

Hwaseong Fortress

Well, it appears good things really do come after your grandfather has your insane dad locked in a rice chest and starved to death. Built at the end of the 18th century by the brilliant King Jeongjo to house the remains of the mad Prince Sado, Suwon’s Hwaseong Fortress is the crown jewel of Joseon Korea’s silhak movement, an intellectual movement within Korean Confucianism to focus on “real world” issues, including science and technology. Adopting in its design and construction the latest advances in engineering technologies and military science, including concepts imported from overseas, the bastion—designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997—emanates a feel that is both distinctly Korean and yet vaguely Western. Its six kilometers of walls are studded with imposing gates, watchtowers, sentry points, secret portals and command pavilions, providing visitors with an endless list of things to explore.

King Jeongjo, Jeong Yak-yong and Silhak

Despite the massive scale of the project, Hwaseong Fortress was completed in just two years between 1794 and 1796, impressive even by today’s standards. It was the brainchild of King Jeongjo (r. 1776—1800), an energetic reformer whose reign marked Joseon’s cultural, intellectual and scientific renaissance. There were several reasons behind the fortress. Firstly, the fortress would serve as a memorial to Jeongjo’s father, Prince Sado, an allegedly sadistic man who would have become king had his father, King Yeongjo, not ordered him into a rice chest that was then locked and left in the hot sun for eight days until he died. Believing his father to be the victim of the Joseon Kingdom’s endemic factional strife, Jeongjo ordered the fortress built to house the late prince’s tomb. Behind this act of filial piety, however, lay some more practical concerns. Korea had been invaded by the Japanese in the 16th century and the Manchus in the 17th century; both times, Korea’s system of mountain fortresses failed. Clearly, more advanced defensive facilities were needed. Perhaps more importantly, however, Jeongjo hoped to relocate the royal capital to the new fortress, away from the bitter infighting and factional struggle of Seoul. He failed in this latter objective, and the capital would remain in Seoul. Construction of the new fortress was entrusted to Jeong Yak-yong, better known by his pen name of “Dasan.” Something of a Renaissance Man, Jeong was a brilliant scholar, philosopher and architect closely associated with the silhak (“practical learning”) movement within Korean Confucianism. Silhak emphasized the practical over the metaphysical, focusing on temporal matters such as social science, industry and technology. Hwaseong Fortress was its c r owning a chi e v ement . J e ong ’ s b lue p r int s incorporated the strengths of Korean, Chinese and Japanese design to produce a fortress that could serve in both defensive and offensive operations. It even drew upon elements of Western castle architecture and construction, such as the use of brick. The building process made use of an ingenious series of pulleys and cranes, operated by paid workers rather than corvée labor. The resul t was a fortress that was both functional and a work of art in its own right.

Hiking Hwaseong

Hwaseong Fortress forms a nearly complete ring around Suwon’s old downtown. At one time, the entire ci ty was contained wi thin i ts wal ls, but urban development in the modern era has led to much of the city spilling out beyond the gates. Unusually for Korean fortresses, which typically surround either a town or a mountain top, Hwaseong does both, running along both flat lowlands and steep hillsides. You can walk the whole thing in about three hours, although you’ll probably want to spend an entire day exploring.

What to Eat Suwon is quite famous for its galbi (barbecued ribs). Yeonpo Galbi (02 255-1337), near Hwaseomun Gate, is especially well known, but there are about 100 restaurants specializing in this dish throughout Suwon. Admission Hwaseong Fortress: 1,000 won. Hwaseong Haenggung: 1,500 won Getting There The fortress (Paldalmun Gate) is a 20-minute walk from Suwon Station, Line 1.

Hwaseong Fortress Highlights • Janganmun Gate: The old north gate of the fortress, this massive portal with a two-story pavilion is Korea’s largest gate, even larger than Seoul’s Sungnyemun. Note the crescent demilune that offers the gate even further protection from enemies. The gate is beautiful both day and night. • Hwaseomun Gate: Not only is Hwaseong’s western gate beautiful in its own right, but it’s also protected by an imposing brick watchtower the likes of which can be found nowhere else in Korea. • Hwahongmun Gate: More of a bridge than a gate, this section of the wall was built with seven arches, through which flows the Suwoncheon Stream. Nearby is a pond and, on the hill overlooking it, a command pavilion. This is one of the most picturesque stretches of the wall. • Paldalmun Gate and Seojangdae Pavilion: Now a traffic island surrounded by modern Suwon, the grand old south gate offers a dramatic contrast between the old and new. From the gate, follow the wall as it ascends Mt. Paldalsan until you reach Seojangdae Pavilion. Located on the highest point of the wall, this command post offers breathtaking views of the fortress, city and hills beyond. • Secret Gates: Called ammun in Korean, these hidden entrances were used to sneak supplies into the fortress and, if need be, let troops sally outside the fortress to attack a besieging enemy. The one in the southwest, on the slope of Mt. Paldalsan, is particularly interesting. • Hwaseong Haenggung: Built by Jeongjo as a royal residence to use when he visited his father’s tomb, this beautiful temporary palace was restored in 2003, the original having been destroyed during the Japanese colonial era. • Traditional Archery: There’s a range in the fortress where you can try your hand at the Korean martial tradition of archery. Fee: 10,000 won for 10 arrows. • Filial Piety Bell: Hwaseong was built as an act of filial piety; to celebrate this, the city hung a big Korean-style bell for visitors to ring. You ring it thrice: once for your parents’ health, once for your family’s health, and once for your own personal development. Fee: 1,000 for singles and doubles, 2,000 for groups of three or four.

- The article courtesy of Seoul magazine

Coming to Terms with the Past

A straight, narrow path runs southwest from the main cell blocks of what is now called Seodaemun Prison to the outer edge of the complex, where nearly a century ago friends and family members gathered beyond the wall to spend time with loved ones imprisoned for taking part in the Korean independence movement. When a prisoner had a visitor, he was led along this path to the south wall. But along the way, he passed a second path that breaks off to the right—leading toward the prison’s execution chamber. For those who were sentenced to death, the walk represented the cruelest of torments: unaware of the date of their execution, it was not until they stepped beyond the crossing that they knew they would live another day. At the Junction of Life and Death “This spot marks an important point,” explains Koo Bon-sik, a guide at the prison museum. “When the Korean inmate knew that he would be taken to the right, he cried a lot here—not because of the thought of his death, but because he couldn’t see the day of Joseon’s independence. Prior to entering the execution room, inmates embraced the tree standing by the entrance and wept. The tree is known today as the ‘Wailing Poplar.’” The Japanese began construction of Seodaemun Prison (originally called “Gyeongseong Jail”) in 1907 and started transporting prisoners previously held in small jails throughout the peninsula—mostly arrested protestors of the occupation—the following year. The complex consisted of 18 red brick buildings, including an administration building; cell blocks; two labor buildings where inmates assembled uniforms for Japanese soldiers; a large kitchen for preparing the inmates’ concoction of rice, barley, corn, and beans; and the aforementioned execution room. From its opening in 1908 until Korean independence from Japan in 1945, the prison housed Korean patriots of the independence movement. Following liberation, the complex continued to be used as a jail until its closure in 1987. In 1998, the grounds were reopened to the public as a memorial museum. At present, eight of the original buildings remain. Dismal Conditions Visitors to the prison needn’t take much time to grasp the amount of suffering inflicted on its former occupants. Just a few meters down the first of three long corridors extending from the central building are the prison’s isolation cells, where individuals convicted of the most serious offenses were held. Measuring 3.3 square meters, the rectangular rooms are no larger than a small pantry. Prisoners endured life in these dark and humid concrete boxes day and night, with no windows, electricity, or toilets—their only reprieve being thirty minutes a day on the exercise ground. Conditions were scarcely better for the general population. The prison was designed to hold a maximum capacity of 500, and in the period preceding the March First Independence Movement in 1919, the population rarely exceeded 300 inmates. But as the resistance gained moment, the number of prisoners swelled to 3,500. Koo explains, “Small cells that normally held seven prisoners were now filled with up to 35 people during the peak time. As sleep was near impossible, they took shifts. One third slept on one side of the room, while the other two thirds stood and waited for their turn.” A Student Martyr Torture was a customary component of life in the prison. On this day, two schoolgirls are gazing at a sign in the engineering room instructing them to press a button and place their faces to a glass window. When they do, the room behind the glass fills with light, revealing two mannequins arranged in the scene of a male guard inserting thin, wooden rods beneath the fingernails of a female prisoner. The woman’s screams startle the girls, who hurriedly exit the room. This is but one of many displays of the kinds of torture inflicted on the prisoners. Beatings, electric shock, submersion in buckets of pepper-laced water, and prolonged isolation in coffin-sized wooden boxes are a few of the others. Though the exact number is unknown, it is widely believed that many captives died as a result of prolonged abuse. One such victim was Yu Gwansun, the most revered occupant of the prison. Inspired by the independence movement, Yu left her studies at Ewha Girls' High School in 1918, at age 16, to join in the struggle. She was captured on Apr i l 1 , 1919 and moved to Seodaemun in August of the same year. Defiant to the end, Yu led other inmates in impassioned cries for independence from the solitude of her underground cell until her death in October 1920. Her memory is commemorated by a structure bearing her name located near the front gate of the prison. At the end of a visit to the prison, one is armed with a collection of solemn impressions, yet one more still awaits. Beyond the exit gate, waiting in the distance, is the grand figure of Mt. Inwangsan peering down over high-rise apartments, as though standing guard over a plot of land that represents the sorrow of a nation’s past, the pride of its present, and the promise of its future. More Info T. (02) 360-8590 Hours of Operation: Mar—Oct 9:30am—6pm; Nov—Feb 9:30am—5pm Admission: Adults 1,500 won, teenagers 1,000 won, children (7—12) 500 won, senior citizens and young children (6 and under) free Getting There Exit 5, Dongnimmun Station, Line 3. In the Neighborhood • Independence Gate Located, like the prison, in Seodaemun Independence Park, the Independence Gate was designed by a Swiss engineer and built in 1896 to mark the severance of Korea’s centuries-old relationship with China. • Mt. Inwangsan A fascinating mountain of great spiritual significance for Koreans, Mt. Inwangsan is home to the Guksadang, Korea’s most important indigenous religious shrine. It is also the scene of various indigenous rituals. The nearby Hyundai apartments mark the start to a walking trail that follows the old northern city walls to the picturesque neighborhood of Buam-dong. - The article courtesy of Seoul magazine

A Walk Through Myeong-dong

Written by Seo Dong Shin Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo Seoul is a big city by any measure. Whatever you are looking for—be it entertainment, cultural heritage, a cheap or luxurious shopping experience, or just a good peep into the lives of ordinary Seoulites—people will have location names ready for you. But what if you want to sample all those things in just one visit? There is one and only one place to go: Myeong-dong. Since its time as a modest commercial district dating back to the Joseon era, Myeong-dong has developed over the last half-century into the commercial heart of the c i ty . I t s locat ion put s i t c los e to the nat ion’ s administrative headquarters, and it has also served as a financial hub, hosting many stock brokerage firms as well as the first national bank. But since the 1960s, its name ha s had mor e cul tur a l and f a shionabl e associat ions, as has the neighboring district of Chungmuro, arguably the nation’s film industry mecca. Any Koreans in their 50s or 60s will likely recall episodes of themselves or film celebrities frequenting Myeongdong's dabang, or tea rooms, where “disc jockeys” sitting in tiny boxes played music on turntables upon requests from customers. Namdaemun Market, which does not lack for lively charm and quirky shopping experiences, is also close by.

The Golden Plot

When you get off at Myeong-dong Station, Seoul Subway Line 4, come up the stairs of Exit 6 and you will immediately face the main road, which stretches for a walk of about 10 to 15 minutes, or longer if you are walking carefully and trying not to bump into the crowds on this always bustling street. As soon as you get out of the subway station, chances are that people dressed in strange costumes will be dancing to jingles or handing out freebies, promoting the latest cell phone or beauty product. Along the central part of the road are street vendors selling all kinds of products, ranging from T-shirts and caps to sweet potato crisps, chocolatecovered bananas and hot pancakes. Shops in Myeong-dong reportedly pay the steepest rents in Seoul, for obvious reasons. While the malaise that plagues most small-scale restaurants or fashion shops in Seoul—rarely surviving for more than one to two years in one place—seems to apply here as well, the volume of the local population, along with tourists from Japan, China and, increasingly, Southeast Asia, guarantees exposure and opportunities. All the brand names you can think of in high-street clothing, cosmetics, and eatery franchises can be safely found on one, or even two, of the signs on the buildings dotting the road. If you combine them with smaller-scale shops on the several alleyways stretching sideways from the main road, Myeong-dong should easily be the biggest shopping district in Seoul. In addition, sizeable department stores for richer people, such as Shinsegae and Lotte, are located just one street over.

Vinyl Hunting

Some shops from older days are harder to find but may be worth checking out—if not for the buy, then for the experience. For example, Ttrak of Bloo (02-778- 7309) is one of the last old-school record shops standing in Seoul. Don’t be put off by the blaring K-pop idol group music and the pictures of Korean Wave stars lining the wall at the entrance. When you go up the narrow stairs— which, incidentally, featured in the 1997 hit film “The Contact”—you will find stacks of classical music CDs on the second floor and, on the third and fourth floors, dusty boxes filled with vinyl records from EMI and Decca. Gray gentlemen spend hours there, sometimes puffing their cigarettes inside, looking for their daily find. This shop is, along with the stores in nearby Hoehyun Arcade, part of the long and proud tradition of vinyl hunting in Seoul. Myeonghwadang is a “snack restaurant” that has occupied a place since 1980 on the second floor of its building across from contemporary Western restaurants like VIPS. It sticks to the humble menu and interior of its older days and sells traditional Korean street food items such as tteokbokki and gimbap, along with noodle soups and tonkkaseu, at reasonable prices—a virtue not easily found in other Myeong-dong eateries.

Notable Architecture

number of colonial era buildings, most of which can be reached from the west side of the main shopping road by a five-minute walk through a rather dilapidated underpass. Mostly designed by Japanese architects during the colonial era, they have been partially restored or renovated but maintain unique appearances, with styles ranging from Renaissance and Baroque to Modernist. They stand in silent yet stark contrast to the nondescript square buildings surrounding them, although the controversial new “Post Tower” building, which houses the Post Office headquarters, is set to create its own category of postmodernism. Both the Bank of Korea’s main office building, which houses a currency museum, and the old headquarters of the Korea First Bank, currently SC First Bank, boast rich Renaissance style. Myeong-dong Theater (Baroque) appears when you follow the main road to the north, having survived after renovation—unlike its cinema peers Gukdo Theater and Theater Scala—to run musicals and plays today. On the east side, Myeong-dong Cathedral was built in the late 19th century and remains the nation’s only example of pure Gothic architecture. The cathedral is not solely for Catholic gatherings; it has become a symbol of the democratization movement, as many activists and student or labor leaders sought refuge there under the wings of sympathetic Catholic priests during the authoritarian administrations of the 1970s and 1980s. When the new Chinese Embassy, which reportedly will show off that country’s growing presence in Korea with a 24-story tower, is completed in 2012, it will be another addition to the cacophony—er, harmony—of styles in Myeong-dong.

Eating and Drinking Around Myeong-dong

• Myeongdong Halmeoni Guksu (Grandma's Noodles) Myeong-dong’s name is automatically associated with a few staple Korean food items, and kalguksu (knife-cut wheat flour noodles) is probably the most renowned. Franchise Myeongdong Kalguksu restaurants are easily found on any of the busy streets of Seoul. While few can claim originality, this modest-looking yet hugely successful eatery established in 1958 is definitely one of those that can. Famous items include tofu noodle soup and spicy bibim noodles, offered at the affordable price of 4,000 won. T. (02) 778-2705 or www.1958.co.kr. • Café Gamoo Myeong-dong seems to be dominated by either Western franchises or a constant rotation of fashionable cafés primarily targeting teenage customers. While this café overlooking the old Chinese embassy site may look like the same kind of place at first glance, it has kept its location since 1975, which is quite a rare feat. A wide selection of coffee and wine is on offer in its four-story building, reasonably priced and sometimes even served with free pieces of cake. Patrons favor creamy “Vienna coffee.” T. (02) 776-3141. • Chinese Restaurants and Desserts It may not be quite big enough to really deserve the official title of "Chinatown," but Myeong-dong does have a street that hosts an array of Chinese restaurants and even bakeries selling Chinese-style sweets. The street is located near the old Chinese embassy site. • Payard Located on the sixth floor of Shinsegae Department Store. Fans of the U.S. series "Sex and the City" may remember heroine Carrie Bradshaw proclaiming Payard the most delicious dessert café in New York. Well, its apple tarts are now available in Seoul, too. Pricey for sure, but connoisseurs seem to generally approve. T. (02) 310-1980. • Street Food If you are already walking through Myeong-dong, why not sample one of the many snacks on offer from street vendors? Be it takoyaki, sweet potato crisps or the weirdly shaped traditional sugar and baking powder stick candy called dalgona, street food is an indelible part of the Myeong-dong experience. • Ggongsi Myeongwan, Myoungdong Kyoja, Fugetsu & Jinsadaek For these four other top Myeong-dong restaurants, see our Eating Out section (p60—63).

•Getting There The main shopping district lies between Euljiro 1-ga Station, Line 2, Exit 5 or 6, and Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exits 5 through 10.

- The article courtesy of Seoul magazine

Table Etiquette

Table Etiquette
	Dining is a very important part of Korean culture. People tend to eat with their families or with work colleagues and rarely eat alone. Due to Korea’s Confucian heritage there are many traditional customs that are still observed when dining. Below is an introduction to table etiquette in Korea. Although it is always a good idea to observe another country’s customs, travelers in Korea should not feel unduly concerned about dining etiquette. These days most Koreans are just happy to see foreign visitors taking an interest in their culture, and will not take offense if visitors do not observe all the customs.
-	In Korean culture, respect for your elders is very important. Therefore, if you are dining with someone who is older than you, you should wait for them to sit and to start eating, and you should remain at the table until they have finished eating.
-	When the food arrives, you should first taste the soup or the stew and then try the rice and the side dishes.
-	Stews, soups, and meat dishes are often served in a large communal dish rather than individual servings. Koreans believe that sharing food from one bowl makes a relationship closer. Diners can eat directly from the main dish, or serve themselves into the small individual plates provided.
-	When eating, Koreans are careful not to leave any traces of food on their spoon, and at the end of the meal, the chopsticks and spoon should be returned to their original position.
-	Drinking can be an important part of doing business in Korea. The tradition is that you should never serve yourself, but someone else should fill your glass. If your fellow diner’s glass is empty, you should refill it, especially if you are drinking with someone older than you.
-	When eating in a group in Korea, it is rare to share the bill or ‘go dutch’. Generally the older member of the group will pay the bill. Younger diners might try to repay the debt by paying for coffee afterwards.

Chopsticks
Unlike other Asian countries, Korean chopsticks are made from stainless steel. They are shorter in length than Chinese chopsticks, but longer in length than Japanese chopsticks. Korean chopsticks are often ornately decorated around the grip. At most restaurants, diners will be given chopsticks and a spoon. If visitors are uncomfortable eating with chopsticks, they should ask for a knife and fork.

Beverages

When dining at a restaurant, water or green tea is generally served free of charge with meals. At smaller establishments, visitors might be expected to help themselves to water from the water cooler. When drinking alcohol, separate glasses will be provided, and diners should not use their water glasses. Soju is drunk from a small glass resembling a shot glass, while Makgeolli (thick rice beer) is generally served in a small bowl.

Seating

Traditionally when dining, Koreans sit on cushions on the floor and eat from a low table. The floor is generally heated by the ondol under floor heating system, so it is comfortable. This custom is still common at a lot of restaurants in Korea. The dining area in a restaurant is generally on a raised platform, which visitors should remove their shoes before stepping on to. These days most restaurants also have a table-and-chairs option in case visitors feel uncomfortable sitting on the floor.

Hanguk Eumak Music

The burning of the heart is implicit in the sound of the voice. This is the first step of being able to understand traditional Korean music. Within traditional Korean music listeners can find the history of the Koreans, a history memorable for its sorrow and pain. Much of the music that has been passed down from previous generations deals with feeling of separation. Koreans sang songs when they could not hold their sadness in. Of course, not all Korean music is sad. For example, royal court music is a kind of music used for ceremonies or rituals. Music played during religious services or events belongs to this category. Consequently, formal music often focuses on lauding the achievements of past kings. The strict format is more important than the content in the case of music played for official events. The display and playing of every instrument is also symbolic. One typical example of formal Korean music is the Jongmyo Shrine ritual music. It is the music that is played for the ritual services for former kings and has been appointed a world intangible heritage by UNESCO. If formal music is for the ruling class then 'folk music' is the song of those being ruled. This genre includes the pansori, a traditional Korean narrative song, which has been named a UNESCO world intangible heritage. The pansori is a kind of music presented to audiences by skilled vocal singers and drummers. But even the unskilled could sing these songs. They sang when they worked in the rice paddy or fields, sang when they went off their lover and sang when their life was troubled and weighing them down. The 'folk song' literally means the song of folklore. Therefore, the folk song is the traditional music sung most frequently by Koreans. Folk songs contain the bittersweet emotion of Koreans. The quintessential Korean folk song is Arirang. Arirang is the title of a particular song that is now used as a symbol of Korea and Korean culture. There are many variations of Arirang in Korea. Arirang can vary independently depending on the region. The Jeongseon Arirang is found in Jeongseon, a remote mountain of Gangwon-do. Jindo, an island of Jeollanam-do, is home to the Jindo Arirang. The number of traditional Arirangs passed down throughout the nation can be counted in the hundreds if modified rhythms are included. The refrain is the same even though the songs may differ by region: 'Arirang Arirang Arario'. Arirang is in essence a song of farewell. The origin of the word of 'Arirang' is ‘the hill’. With 70% of its land being mountainous, there are also many foothills throughout the country. Most Koreans had partings on a number of such hills. An emotion of deep regret is imbued in the rhythm of Arirang and its very pronunciation--'Arirang’evokes the feeling of the tears shed by Koreans and the remembrance of their sad stories. Traditional Korean music Is significantly different from that of other places. In Western music for instance, one note equals one beat. In the meter of Korean music, however, is one that phrase gets one breath. Basically, the unit of times for rhythm is different between Korea and other countries. More interestingly, there is no conductor for Korean music. The individual musicians of a group must play his or her instrument in tune with his breath and with the breath of his or her colleague's. The breath of Korean musical rhythm unites with movement. The traditional Korean music is always accompanied by dance and song. For a greater depth of view of Korean music, focus must be given to the breath of the musicians. The Korean expression 'tuning the breath' originates from the concept of rhythm in Korean music.

[Types of Traditional Music and Listening to Sample Music]

* “Sujecheon”, a piece of instrumental music performed at the royal court: To hear the sample music * “Jeonpyehoemun”, a music piece played during events at the royal court: To hear the sample music * “Ujosamsudaeyeop”, songs with lyrics from poetry by noblemen or scholars: To hear the sample music

A performance of the gayageum , a string instrument often played by noble women as a part of their cultural education or by lady entertainers